Product Guide for Land Rover Defender Urban Seats by Exmoor Trim

Key Takeaways

• The heated seat kit includes dual heat switches, wiring looms, and relays that connect directly to the battery for older Defenders

• Installation requires drilling holes for switches, routing wires carefully, and connecting heated elements to both seat base and backrest

• The upgraded seats offer better support with enhanced bolsters and padding whilst maintaining the same frame design as standard Defender seats

Kit Contents and Components

Main Wiring Loom

You get two sets of the same components in this kit. Each set includes a main loom that connects directly to the battery. Everything is encased in one piece with the relay built in, so it arrives ready to go.

The wiring loom features an integrated relay and a main feed that runs to your battery. You'll notice there are quite a few wires to manage when retrofitting heated seats in a Defender. Each seat has its own complete wiring loom.

Key components on each loom:

• Negative connections

• Positive connections (grouped together)

• Inline fuse for protection

• Connection points for the seat heating elements

Relay and Battery Connections

The relay comes pre-installed on the wiring loom. If you have a modern Defender, you can run the wiring to your fuse board where you'll find options for heated seat fuse relays. For older models, you connect straight to the battery.

The positive connections for both seats can be grouped together since each one has individual fusing. The inline fuse sits on the loom for easy access. You'll need to route the main feed below into the battery box for the connection.

The relay will need to sit near your switches because the wiring doesn't have much flex on that end. However, the wiring that runs to the seats has plenty of length, which you can bundle up to keep things tidy.

Dual Heat Switches

The kit includes two small switches that create a dual heat system. You get low and high settings for your heated seats.

These switches are push-in fit, which makes them simple to install. You just need to drill a hole to the correct size, then slide the switch in and it clips into place. You can fit them in various materials like metal housing or wood.

Installation tip: Use a step drill bit set to 20mm for the correct hole size. Put a zip tie on the drill bit at 22mm (one step down from where you need to stop) so you know exactly how far to drill.

Compatibility with Different Materials

You can install the switches in different materials depending on your setup. Wood is easy to drill through and the switches push fit really nicely. Metal housing also works well with these switches.

The switches work in areas like a cubby box, though you need to consider wire routing. If you have a sliding drawer system installed, the wires could get tangled as the drawer moves. In that case, you'll want to position the switches where they can connect to an existing wiring harness that feeds through an aperture at the back.

You'll need to think about wire management if you already have other systems like stereo wiring running through the same area.

Preparation and Planning

Drilling and Installing Switches

You get two small switches in the kit for the dual heat system. These control low and high settings for the heated seats. The switches are push-in fit, which makes them simple to install once you drill the hole to the correct size.

You can fit them in metal, wood, or other materials. They slide in and clip into place easily.

If you don't have a sliding drawer system, the cubby box works well for switch installation. It's made of wood and drills easily. However, with a sliding drawer system, the wires can get tangled. If your stereo wires already feed through an existing aperture with a harness, you can join the new wires to that harness.

Drilling Process:

1. Put masking tape over the surface to avoid scratching

2. Measure and mark your drill point

3. Use a punch to start the hole

4. Use a step drill bit set to 20mm

Place a zip tie on the 22mm mark of your step drill (one step down from 20mm). This stops you from drilling too far. Make sure you position the holes correctly for up and down placement.

Positioning Switches and Harness

The wiring loom includes a relay and a main feed that goes to the battery. You get two of these looms, one for each seat. This creates a lot of wires to manage.

The relay will likely need to sit near the switches because of limited flex in the wiring. If your switches go in the cubby box drawer, the relay should be positioned there as well.

The wiring that connects to the seat has more flex and length. Bundle up the extra wire length in the cubby drawer area to keep things tidy.

For a simpler installation, feed the wires through to the battery box. You can put the switch holes at the front of your drawer system.

Managing Existing Vehicle Wiring

Modern Defenders have a fuse board with options for heated seat fuse relays. For older models, you need to run the wires straight to the battery.

Battery Connection:

• Group the positive connections together (left and right seats)

• Each seat has individual inline fuses

• Place the inline fuse where you can access it easily

• Connect to the battery in the battery box

Gather and insulate all wires together. Make sure connections are tidy and secure before final installation.

When routing wires, consider whether you need to re-route the harness underneath and into the battery box if the harness becomes too bulky. For now, a simple installation through the existing harness works fine.

Heated Seat Wiring Installation

Routing Wires to Battery Box

You get two wiring looms in the kit, one for each seat. Each loom is encased in one piece with the relay built in.

The main feed runs directly to the battery. You need to route these wires from your switch location down into the battery box.

Wire routing steps:

• Feed the main power wire below the cubby area into the battery box

• Use existing wire harnesses if available to keep things tidy

• The seat connection wire has plenty of flex and will need bundling

The positives from both seats can be grouped together. Each wire has an inline fuse already fitted for protection. Make sure the inline fuse is in an accessible location for future maintenance.

Switch and Relay Placement

The kit includes two small push-in switches for a dual heat system. Each switch has low and high settings for the heated seats.

You drill a hole to the correct size and the switches simply slide in and clip into place. They work in metal, wood, or plastic panels. A 22mm pilot hole works well, with the final size at 20mm.

Drilling tips:

• Use masking tape to protect the surface from scratches

• Mark your drill point with a centre punch

• Put a zip tie on your step drill bit at 22mm to avoid drilling too far

• This gives you the right 20mm final size

The relay sits near the switches because the wire length between them is quite short. If your switches go in the cubby drawer, the relay will likely need to sit in there as well. Modern Defenders have fuse board options for heated seat relays, but older models require direct battery connection.

Grouping and Fusing Power Connections

You end up with quite a few wires when retrofitting heated seats. Each seat has its own complete wiring loom.

Both positive connections can be grouped together since they're individually fused. The inline fuses sit along the wire run where you can reach them easily.

Connect the grouped positive wires to the battery positive terminal. The negative wires connect to the battery negative terminal. Keep all connections secure and protected from moisture inside the battery box.

Bundle excess wire length neatly to avoid tangles. Use cable ties to keep everything organised within the cubby drawer area. All the wires get insulated and gathered together before making the final battery connections.

Seat Fitting Process

Removing and Handling the Seat Base

You should take the seat base off before moving your seat into the vehicle. There are two reasons for this.

First, there's a wire tucked away that you'll need to access later. Second, removing the base makes the seat a lot lighter and easier to handle.

If it makes sense for your setup, you can bring the seat in through the second row doors. Collapse the seat as if it's reclined forwards. Open it up to the first latch and offer it into position like that.

Out of the box, your runners might be slightly skew either this way or that way. Don't worry about this. Just loosen the bar at the front and adjust them so they match up.

Accessing Mounting Points

Once you've got your front two bolts ready, drop them into place. After your front two bolts are in place, lift the bar at the front. It's exactly the same as a standard Defender seat.

Lift it up and slide it forwards. You can then get access to those bolts in the back.

Aligning and Securing Seat Runners

When you put the seat base in, be careful not to trap your hose for your lumbar support. Bring that forward and slide it down there.

You've got one wire that does the back heated element. The second wire is tucked away inside. You want to pull that out and feed it through the back.

Connecting the heated seat wires:

• You've got two connectors: one for your upper back and one for your lower seat base

• The prongs inside can wiggle around a bit

• Make sure they're pointing up when you put them in

• These aren't the best connectors but if you manipulate those barbs to point up a little bit, they'll go in properly

• Pop these in to complete the connections

Connecting Heated Seat Elements

Wiring Upper and Lower Elements

You get two connectors for each seat. One connector goes to the upper back element and the other goes to the lower seat base element.

The first wire connects to the back heated element. The second wire is tucked away inside the seat base. You need to pull this wire out and feed it through the back of the seat.

When you're ready to connect, take both connectors and match them to their corresponding elements. Simply pop them into place to complete the wiring.

Ensuring Proper Connector Orientation

The prongs inside the connectors can wiggle around a bit. Make sure these prongs are pointing upwards before you insert the connectors.

The connectors aren't the best quality, so you need to manipulate the barbs carefully. Get them to point up slightly before pushing them in.

Once the prongs are aligned properly, you can push the connectors into place. They should click in when seated correctly.

Final Assembly Checks

After connecting both elements, verify that all connections are secure. Check that no wires are trapped, especially the hose for your lumbar support.

Make sure you haven't caught any wiring when sliding the seat base back into position. Feed the wires through carefully to avoid pinching or damaging them.

Test both the upper and lower elements once everything is connected. This ensures your heated seat system works properly before completing the installation.

Comparison and Comfort Assessment

Seat Profile Differences

When you place the new seat base next to the standard Defender base, the overall profile stays exactly the same. The new seats might feel shorter when you first sit in them, but this is not because of their actual height.

The difference comes from how they support your legs. The new seats have more padding that gets under your thighs better. You also get a solid bolster on the sides that creates a different seating position.

The frame design stays true to the standard Defender seat. The way it moves, the handles, the levers, the arms, and the removable seat base all work exactly like the original seats. This means you are still using what you know and like from the standard setup.

Cushioning and Support Features

The new seats have two bolsters on each side of the seating area. Your body sits right in the centre piece between these bolsters. They give you support on your legs without digging in.

The padding lifts your legs and gets underneath your thighs in a way the standard seats do not. This creates a different feel when you sit down. Your body slowly sinks between the two bolsters as the cushioning adjusts to your weight.

The bolsters offer support but they stay comfortable. They do not press too hard on your sides. Instead, they hold you in place gently.

First Impressions and User Experience

The seats feel more comfortable right away. Even if you are not the skinniest person, you fit between the bolsters properly. The centre piece holds your body whilst the side bolsters provide support.

When you first look at the material, it appears to be leather. The grain, texture, and feel are very close to real leather. You might need to check closely to realise it is vinyl. The quality of this vinyl is much higher than the cheap vinyl you find on standard cubby boxes.

The seats look like an evolved version of the standard Defender seat rather than a completely different design. This means they fit the vehicle's character whilst adding the extra support and features you want.

Material Quality and Aesthetics

Vinyl Versus Leather Appearance

When you first open the packaging, you might genuinely think these seats are leather. The grain, texture, and feel are so close to real leather that you may need to smell them to confirm they're vinyl.

The vinyl quality exceeds the cheap material you'd find on standard cubby boxes. The material looks amazing and feels premium to the touch.

Key Material Features:

• Realistic leather-like grain pattern

• High-quality texture that mimics genuine leather

• Superior to typical vinyl finishes

• Convincing appearance upon inspection

The vinyl construction doesn't feel or look cheap. You get a material that stands up well against actual leather in terms of visual appeal.

Trim and Interior Integration

The seats work as an evolution of the standard Defender seat design. They maintain the original frame structure whilst adding upgraded padding and support features.

Design Consistency:

ElementIntegrationFrameSame as standard DefenderMovement mechanismIdentical to original seatsHandles and leversFactory-style designArmsStandard Defender configurationRemovable seat baseOriginal fitment system

You get nice solid bolsters that lift your legs and get under your thighs better. The profile matches standard seats, but you gain loads more padding in key areas.

The trim and carpet work together with the seats to transform the interior. However, you might notice that standard vinyl cubby boxes don't match the quality level of the seat material.

The seats fit between the existing interior panels without requiring modifications. Your bum sits right in the centre piece with bolsters on either side that provide support without digging in.