Product Guide for Heavy Duty Aluminium Sills for Land Rover Defender 90 - by Mantec

Key Takeaways

• Remove side seals before taking off side steps to get better access to all the fixings

• Tighten badly corroded bolts to snap them off instead of trying to undo them

• Mante one-piece side seals are stronger than standard ones and can be painted to match your vehicle

Preparing for Side Seal Removal

Essential Tools and Equipment

You'll need the following tools to remove your side seals:

• Socket set with 13mm sockets for the top fixings

• 10mm sockets for the bottom bolts

• Cutting tool for corroded bolts that won't come loose

• Waxoyl for sealing chassis openings

The job requires basic hand tools that most people already have in their workshop.

Safety Considerations

Remove the seat rubber by releasing the clips before you start working on the fixings. This gives you better access to the bolts.

If you're planning to remove your side steps, take the side seals off first. This gives you much better access to the step fixings, especially if you need to cut them off.

You can get to everything inside more easily once the seals are removed.

Accessing Fasteners and Fixings

The side seals attach with a couple of fixings at the front and back, plus a few bolts along the length. You'll find 13mm nuts at the top and 10mm fixings at the bottom, though corrosion can make it hard to tell which size they are.

The bolts that go up through the trim into the sill corrode badly. You've got one at the front and two at the back. The one right at the very back corrodes the worst.

For severely corroded bolts, use this method:

1. Tighten the bolt instead of loosening it

2. The corroded bolt will snap off

3. This is much easier than trying to loosen seized fixings

The supporting bracket bolts to the chassis. In some cases, the riv nut might spin when you try to remove it. If this happens and it drops into the chassis, fill the area with lots of Waxoyl so it doesn't rattle about.

Fish out as much dirt as you can from around the fixings before you start removing them.

Removing the Original Side Seals

Loosening Corroded Bolts

You'll find a couple of fixings at the front and back of the side seals, plus a few bolts holding everything in place. Most of the nuts and bolts will come undone without much trouble.

The bolts that go up through the trim into the sill get very corroded. You've got one at the front and two at the back. The one right at the very back corrodes badly.

Once you access these bolts, fish out as much dirt as you can. You'll need 13mm sockets for the bolts at the top. The bottom fixings appear to be 10mm, though they may be so corroded it's hard to tell.

Using the Tightening Method to Remove Stubborn Fasteners

The bolts going through the trim into the sill get so corroded that tightening them up works better than trying to loosen them. This makes them snap, which is much easier than fighting with seized threads.

Use the tightening method on the bolts at the very ends of the seal. They're the worst for corrosion. You'll get a bit of snapping, but this approach saves time and effort.

Addressing Trim and Supporting Brackets

You may need to release the clips to get the seat rubber off. This gives you better access to all the fixings. The supporting bracket attaches to the chassis and needs to come off as well.

If a riv nut spins whilst you're trying to remove the bracket, it will drop into the chassis. Put lots of Waxoyl in there so it doesn't rattle about.

Managing Dirt and Debris

Fish out as much dirt as you can from around the mounting points before you start removing bolts. This helps you get better access and see what you're working with.

Getting the side seal off gives you proper access to everything inside. This is essential if you want to remove side steps as well, since you can get to all the fixings more easily.

Replacing with Mante One Piece Side Seals

Benefits of Mante One Piece Seals

The Mante one piece side seals offer several practical advantages over standard seals. These heavy duty seals don't flex or twist during use. They maintain their appearance better because dents are less noticeable on them.

The one piece design provides structural stability. You'll also find Mante branding moulded into the back section of each seal.

Temporary Fitting and Adjustment

You should temporarily fit the side seals before final installation. This allows you to check the positioning and make any necessary adjustments.

Place the seals on the vehicle to see how they sit. You can leave them in position whilst you complete other work on the vehicle. Remember to remove them again before you paint the vehicle so they can be painted separately.

Highlighting or Painting Mante Branding

You have two options for the Mante branding on the seals:

• Highlight the branding to make it visible

• Paint it the same colour as the rest of the seal for a subtle look

The choice depends on your preference. Painting the branding the same colour creates a more understated appearance.

Final Installation Process

Remove the side seals before painting your vehicle. The seals need to be painted separately from the vehicle body.

Once you've completed the painting, you can install the seals properly. The seals should look much better once they're painted and fitted correctly.

Handling Side Steps and Mud Flaps

Considerations for Removing Side Steps

You need to remove your side seal before you take off the side steps. This gives you better access to the fixings. It's especially important if you plan to cut anything off.

The side steps attach with a couple of fixings at the front and back, plus a few bolts. Most nuts and bolts should come undone without too much trouble. However, the ones that go up through the trim into the sill get very corroded.

For badly corroded bolts, you're better off tightening them instead of loosening them. This snaps the bolts and makes removal much easier. The bolts at the very ends corrode the worst. You'll likely need to use the tightening method on these.

Key bolt locations:

• One at the front

• Two at the back

• The one at the very back corrodes most badly

After you snap the corroded bolts, fish out as much dirt as you can from the area. You'll find 13mm fixings at the top. Get a good socket on those if possible. You might need to release some clips to get the seat rubber off first.

The fixings at the bottom might be 10mm, but they could be so corroded it's hard to tell. Once you remove the side steps, you need to take the supporting bracket off the chassis as well.

Sometimes you'll need to cut brackets off. If a riv nut spins during removal, it will drop into the chassis. Put plenty of waxoyl in there so it doesn't rattle about.

The Mantec one-piece side seals work well as replacements. They don't flex or twist like other options. They also won't look bad if they get dented. These seals come with a branded piece on the back. You can either highlight it or paint it the same colour as the vehicle for a subtle look.

Deciding on Mud Flap Removal

You should probably leave the mud flaps on. Whilst you might consider removing them during other work, keeping them fitted is the better choice.

Dealing with Common Issues

Tackling Corroded Riv Nuts

When you encounter corroded riv nuts during removal, you might face spinning issues. The riv nut can spin freely without coming loose, making it impossible to remove properly.

Your best option is to cut through the bolt. Once you've cut it, the riv nut will likely drop into the chassis. This isn't ideal, but it's manageable.

Steps to handle a dropped riv nut:

1. Cut the bolt when the riv nut won't stop spinning

2. Accept that the riv nut will fall into the chassis

3. Move on with your installation

Applying Protective Treatments Against Rattling

After a riv nut drops into the chassis, it will rattle about whilst you drive. You need to prevent this noise.

Pour lots of waxoyl into the area where the riv nut dropped. The waxoyl serves two purposes. It stops the loose riv nut from rattling, and it provides rust protection to the chassis interior.

Make sure you use enough waxoyl to coat the area thoroughly. This will keep the riv nut from moving about and creating annoying sounds.