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When you're fitting headlamps to your Land Rover, knowing the differences between LED and standard models will make the job much easier. LED headlamps have mounting points cast directly into the body, whilst standard lamps use small raised bridges to secure the bezel frame. The key to proper installation is identifying which way the lamp faces, selecting the right bezel and bowl combination, and ensuring all adjustment screws are fitted correctly before connecting everything to your vehicle.
You'll need to pay attention to the mounting point positions, which aren't symmetrical and sit at specific locations around the lamp. Getting the bezel properly secured requires careful positioning and tightening, and you should always use a manual screwdriver rather than a cordless driver for better control. Once you've slotted the adjustment screws into place and connected the wiring, you can check that both dipped and full beam settings work as they should.
LED headlamps have cast mounting points whilst standard lamps use raised bridges to secure the bezel frame
Proper positioning of the bezel requires aligning mounting points at specific locations and bending tabs slightly downward for better clamping
Adjustment screws fit at the top and 9 o'clock positions and must be slotted into the mounting frame before connecting the wiring
The LED headlamp has a cast back. The mounting points are cast directly into the body itself.
Standard lamps work differently. They have little raised bridges on them. You'll find three of these bridges on the lamp. These bridges secure the bezel (the frame) onto the lamp itself.
Key structural differences:
LED lamps: Mounting points integrated into cast body
Standard lamps: Raised bridges for bezel attachment
The mounting points are not symmetrical on either type. You'll see one mounting point at 1 o'clock, one at about half past 5, and one at half past 9. The LED lamp has the exact same positioning.
These mounting positions line up with adjustment screws. You'll find two specific positions for the adjustment screws. One sits at the top. The other sits on the left-hand side at 9 o'clock.
The bezel has two hook positions that clip onto these adjustment screws. When you position the lamp correctly with the top marking upwards, you place it so one hook sits at the top and the other at 9 o'clock. Once you rotate it into place, the holes align very close to the bridges.
You need to work out which way is up and which way is down before you fit your lamps to your vehicle. Check the lens itself for any writing that shows you the correct orientation.
Some lamps have helpful markings on them. You might see "top" written on the lens, which tells you exactly which end goes up. Other lamps show both "top" and "bottom" markings.
Key points to remember:
Look for text on the lens
"Top" marking indicates the upper side
"Bottom" marking indicates the lower side
Not all lamps have these markings
The mounting points on your lamp are not symmetrical at all. You'll find three raised bridges on a standard lamp that secure the bezel to the lamp body.
Look at where these mounting points sit on the lamp. You'll see one positioned at 1 o'clock, another at about half past 5, and a third at half past 9. LED lamps have the same mounting point positions, though they're cast into the body itself rather than being raised bridges.
Your bezel also has specific mounting positions. It features two hook positions that clip onto the adjustment screws. One hook sits at the top of the lamp and the other sits on the left-hand side at 9 o'clock.
Mounting position layout:
PositionLocationFirst mounting point1 o'clockSecond mounting pointHalf past 5Third mounting pointHalf past 9Hook position 1TopHook position 29 o'clock
Place your lamp with the top marking at the correct position. Put it in place with one hook at the top and the other at 9 o'clock. Rotate the lamp until the holes line up closely with the little bridges. You're now ready to fit the tabs.
You need to choose between different bezel options before fitting your lamps. A good value bezel kit costs around £9 plus tax and includes everything you need to complete the installation.
What's included in a bezel kit:
Chrome bezel
Full lamp bowl attached
All fixings and screws
Spare screws
Rubber seal for the back of the bowl
The kit gives you two mounting positions with small hook positions. These clip onto the adjustment screws at specific locations on your lamp.
When you purchase just a chrome rim on its own, it typically costs about £7. This makes the complete kit better value since you get all the additional parts for only £2 more.
You can select either a standard rim or a full bowl design for your headlamp installation. Each option has different characteristics.
FeatureStandard RimFull BowlCoverageOuter edge onlyComplete bowlInstallationSimple and quickMore work requiredWire routingEasy accessMust pull wire throughHole modificationNot neededMay need enlargingWater collectionLess likelyTends to collect water
The full bowl option requires you to pull your wire through and you might have to make the hole bigger. This creates extra work during installation.
The standard rim only covers the outer edge. This design avoids the complications of wire routing and water collection issues.
You can also buy a full bowl kit and cut the back piece off. This gives you the rim you want whilst taking advantage of the kit's value pricing.
The rubber seal comes included in your bezel kit. You fit this seal at the back of your bowl where it sits against the body of your Land Rover.
First, identify which way is up and which way is down on your lamp. Look for writing on the lens itself that marks the top and bottom. The mounting points are not symmetrical - they sit at specific positions like 1 o'clock, half past 5, and half past 9.
Installation steps:
Position the bezel with the top marking correctly aligned
Place it so one hook is at the top and one is at 9 o'clock
Rotate until the holes line up with the small bridges on the lamp
Use the small tabs provided in the kit
Bend tabs slightly downward for better clamping
Lay each tab over its bridge
Push screws through from the front side
Don't tighten the screws completely at first. Keep them loose until all tabs are in position. This lets you adjust the alignment as needed.
Check that the tabs are sitting properly on the bridges. If they feel loose as you tighten, the tabs may not be positioned correctly.
Once all tabs are in place, tighten each screw fully. Use a manual screwdriver rather than a cordless driver. This gives you better control over the tightening process.
The bezel should feel solid when properly installed. It shouldn't move or feel loose anywhere around the lamp.
You need to identify which way is up and which way is down on your headlamp. If you have writing on the lens, that will show you the top and bottom. Some lamps have "top" written directly on them.
The mounting points are not symmetrical. You will find one at 1 o'clock, one at half past 5, and one at half past 9. These positions are the same on both LED and standard lamps.
Key differences between lamp types:
LED lamps have mounting points cast into the body itself
Standard lamps have raised bridges on the body
Both types have three mounting points total
The raised bridges on standard lamps secure the bezel (the frame) onto the lamp body.
Start by locating the two hook positions on your bezel. These clips attach onto the adjustment screws. You will have one at the top and one on the left-hand side at 9 o'clock.
Place your lamp with the top in the correct position. Put the bezel hooks approximately at the top position and at 9 o'clock. Rotate the bezel until the holes line up very close to the little bridges.
Once you rotate it slightly, the holes should align exactly where you want them. The bezel will now be ready for the tabs to be fitted.
The small tabs need to be prepared before fitting. Sometimes they bend outwards, which won't give you good clamping. Bend them slightly downwards so they are fairly flat but angled for better purchase.
Steps to attach the tabs:
Lay your tab over the bridge
Push your screw through the hole from the front side into place
Don't tighten it completely yet
Fit the other tabs in the same way
Check that the bezel is not loose
When you've done it correctly, the bezel should clamp in nicely as you tighten. If it feels loose in there, you may have the tabs positioned off the bridges.
Use a screwdriver rather than a cordless driver. This gives you more control. Go nice and tight with each screw.
The bezel should now be solid and not move at all. The two additional holes in the bowl will receive your adjustment screws. Install one adjustment screw at the top and one at 9 o'clock. Each screw has a little groove inside the head designed for the bezel hooks to slot into.
You need to position the tabs over the small raised bridges on the lamp body. These tabs can sometimes bend outwards, which won't give you good clamping. Before you fit them, bend each tab slightly downward so it stays fairly flat but angles down just a bit. This gives you better purchase when you tighten the screws.
Lay the tab over the bridge on the lamp. From the front side, push the screw through the hole in the bezel and into the tab. Don't tighten it fully yet because you need to fit the other screws first.
Once all three tabs are in position with their screws, check if the bezel feels loose. If you've done it correctly, the assembly should clamp in nicely as you tighten the screws. Go round and tighten each screw properly.
Use a manual screwdriver rather than a cordless driver. This gives you more control over the tightening process. Make sure you go nice and tight on each screw so the bezel is solid and won't move.
After you've tightened all the screws, check that the bezel is firmly in place. It should not be loose at all. The assembly should feel solid and shouldn't move when you touch it.
The two adjustment screws need to slot into the grooves on the mounting frame in the vehicle. These adjustment screws have little grooves inside their heads that are designed to receive the clips from the headlamp bowl.
Line up the adjustment screws with their corresponding slots. The bottom of the lamp assembly also needs to line up with its mounting point. Once everything is aligned, the headlamp should be properly fitted and ready.
Your headlamp bowl has two additional holes that are ready to receive the adjustment screws. You need to fit the adjustment screws in two specific positions on your lamp.
Screw positions:
One screw at the top
One screw at 9 o'clock (left-hand side)
The bezel has two mounting positions with little hook positions. These clips attach onto the adjustment screws you'll be installing. Make sure your lamp is orientated correctly with the top marking visible before you position the screws.
Each adjustment screw has a small groove inside the head. This groove is designed for the mounting frame hooks to slot into.
To engage the adjustment grooves properly:
Insert the adjustment screws into the two holes on your bowl
Position your headlamp bowl or plinth mounting frame in the vehicle
Line up the hooks on the mounting frame with the grooves in the adjustment screws
Slot the hooks into the grooves on each screw
Align the bottom mounting point
The hooks will slot directly into the grooves on the adjustment screws. Once they're engaged, your headlamp will be fitted and held in position by the adjustment screws.
Remove the screw that is already installed in your headlamp bowl or plinth mounting frame. You will see four screws that hold this frame into the vehicle.
Position your headlamp assembly so the two adjustment screws align with the mounting points in the frame. One adjustment screw sits at the top and the other at the 9 o'clock position.
Slot the adjustment screws into each other by matching them with the corresponding points in the frame. The bottom of the headlamp assembly should line up properly once the adjustment screws are seated correctly.
Locate the electrical connection point on your vehicle's wiring harness. This will be visible near the headlamp mounting area.
Plug the connector into the headlamp assembly. The connection should fit securely without excessive force.
Your headlamp is now fitted and ready for beam assessment.
Look at the beam pattern on a flat surface to check the alignment. The beam should appear straight when you view it from behind the headlamp.
Switch between dipped beam and full beam to verify both functions work properly. You will notice a clear difference between the two beam patterns.
The dipped beam produces a controlled, downward-facing pattern. The full beam creates a higher, more intense light output that extends further ahead.
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